Shark in your lipstick: The silent ingredient killing millions…

Squalene is the silent ingredient killing millions.

If you know me, you know I did my dreaded dissertation at uni on ‘The public perception and use of shark-derived squalene in the cosmetic industry and its effect on species population’. Quite the mouthful, I know, but through my research I discovered that there were more threats to shark populations than just finning, bycatch and overfishing. This is when I found ‘shark-derived squalene’ and that this key ingredient in a long list of cosmetic products is contributing to the murder of millions of sharks every year.

Curious? Confused? Buckle up and get ready to discover the salty truths behind many of the products you love and use daily.

Look, we all know sharks get a pretty raw deal, and I’m not just talking about their reputation as ocean bullies. These magnificent predators are being overfished at an alarming rate, primarily for their fins, in what’s essentially the world’s most wasteful seafood operation. Sharks get their fins hacked off while they’re very much alive and kicking (or shall I say swimming?), then get tossed back into the water without a second thought. It’s absolutely devastating, and trust me, we will delve into this financial nightmare later, because it deserves its own long-winded rant. However, a lesser-known threat to sharks is the harvesting of squalene, a complex chemical compound found in their livers.

Squa.. what?

Squalene is a polyunsaturated hydrocarbon widely distributed in plants, animals and the human sebum. Or to put it simply, they are fat molecules with more than one carbon bond. High concentrations of squalene can be found in the livers of deep-sea shark species; however, to extract the squalene, the shark must be killed. To obtain one tonne of squalene, 3,000 sharks must be killed… You see the problem?

Why is squalene important?

• Lower cholesterol levels 
• Reduce heart disease and the risk of strokes
• Provide essential nutrients for cell development and maintenance
• Critical for brain function, memory and cognitive function
• Regulate blood pressure, coagulation and immune system function
• Hydrates, protects and boosts the skin’s natural moisture barrier
• Softens the skin
• Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties

The trade of squalene is directly responsible for the deaths of at least 6 million deep-sea sharks. Millions of sharks are killed so we can delay a few wrinkles? This is something we need to discuss…

Deep-sea sharks species have higher concentrations of squalene in their livers because they require low-density lipids to achieve neutral buoyancy.

• The presence and identification of shark-derived squalene within the cosmetic industry remains inadequate.

Through my dissertation and research, I discovered that squalene is most commonly found in moisturisers, as its components complement the product. The USA and China were most likely to use squalene within their cosmetic products. 

Shark trade: A Worldwide problem

• Asian regions were far more likely to utilise shark-derived products than Europe, which may be because of their lack of implemented legislation. 
• Sharks have been considered a symbol of luxury for centuries within Asian countries, being significantly associated with wealth, power, and social status

Finding (or not finding) the source:

The legitimate source of squalene is rarely disclosed to the public. SHOCK HORROR. Large corporations don’t want to admit responsibility for such an evil yet profitable business… 

This is causing a problem for scientists and conservationists alike because how can we fix an issue we are struggling to prove even exists?

• A similar, more in-depth scientific study was conducted by some French scientists in 2014. With the proper gear, and most likely a greater brain capacity than I, an undergraduate, fulling on monsters and more than a couple of end of week pints, they found some pretty ground-breaking results. 
• ‘93% of tested creams contained shark-derived squalene, suggesting plant-based alternatives are rare within the cosmetic industry.
• Also suggesting that some brands that promote ‘vegan’ and ‘cruelty-free’ products may just be lying… Whether this be on purpose or not, it’s unfair to be misleading, and it’s even more unfair to get away with shark murder…

Not all squalene needs to be stopped:

Likely for your youth, fixated people. Squalene doesn’t only come from sharks. There are other, more sustainable sources: 

• Olive oil
• Sugarcane

Who’s to blame?

• Identifying the sole culprit responsible for the high demand for shark-derived squalene is virtually impossible. 
• Trawlers, gillnets and longline commercial/ recreational fisheries led to HUGE quantities of shark bycatch.

This got me thinking:

• I want to campaign for increased transparency in product labelling worldwide. If the public were aware of the use of shark-derived squalene, would they still reach for their $50 face serum? Hopefully not, but hey, who knows the extremes people are willing to go to to ‘conserve their looks’? 
• It is concerning that as the world becomes increasingly obsessed with beauty, the demand for shark-derived squalene may also align with this growing trend… 

Sign my petition to encourage companies to increase transparency in their labels and make it a legal requirement to disclose the source of all ingredients used in products available for consumption.

https://chng.it/C44kz2FWdN -> Mandate disclosure of ingredient origins in products: SIGN IT and show the sharks some love <3

Reducing shark species population vulnerability:

1. Raise awareness: Educating people about sharks’ ecological importance within ecosystems is going to take more than me chewing off the ears of anyone I meet who says, ‘you like sharks? Ma,n I hate them. It’s going to take an army of people determined to improve sharks’ lives.
2. Reduce misconceptions of sharks: Again, not as easy as it may seem. Movies, TV and Media focus heavily on creating an evil narrative for these species and increasing the gap between people and fins. Let’s start promoting sharks, not hating them. 
3. Ecotourism may be a great way of highlighting the beauty of sharks. It’s been proven that individuals who see sharks in a wild setting are more willing to support conservation. So grab your fins and hit the dive boats. Do you need any more reason to explore the ocean and get your hair wet?!
4. Get the government involved. If I could fix this issue alone, I would. Unfortunately, it’s surprisingly hard to get government officials to listen to a 5-foot-3 girl who’s shark-crazy… Petitions and protests are a great way to get the attention of people in higher places

Establishing successful long-term protection policies for sharks is a complex and lengthy process, but taking small steps in the right direction is an effective way to achieve shark safety. 

I hope you learnt something new this week, and if you read one of my many dissertation drafts, you’re welcome. You’re well on your way to becoming a shark geek, too.

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